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To
Ceviche or not to Seviche? Which wine though?
Join Gaucho Wine Buyer Phil Crozier’s Master
class for the perfect Wine Matching to Ceviche
Warning: Please try these at home!
Ceviche
(also spelt as Seviche) is one of the best kept secrets
of South America but not many have worked out what
would be the best wine for this seafood marinated
platter. The Ceviches below have been prepared by
Ryan Hattingh and Paul Fletcher of Gaucho. |
Argentinean
restaurant Gaucho’s Head Sommelier and
wine buyer, Phil Crozier, has chosen another single grape
variety wine to compare with Torrontes for each Ceviche.
If you are not familiar with Ceviche or Torrontes, you will
not be disappointed to learn that even though the wine is
said to have originated from Spain, it is considered to
be a truly Argentinean grape variety. As for the Ceviche,
it is seafood, marinated in citrus juices – orange,
lemon or lime, and served with chilli and coriander. It
appears that in Peru, they serve it with cold potato or
corn and the Ecuadoreans serve it popcorn while the Mexicans
who prefer to spell “Seviche” serve it with
tortilla. The good thing about eating Ceviche is that they
qualify as ‘healthy eating”.
According to Phil, there are 3 recognised types of Torrontes
found in Argentina; Torrontes Riojano, Torrontes Sanjuanino
and Torrontes Mendocino. Nevertheless, the Riojano is the
most significant and the best. It grows in the best province
of Salta, in the far North of Argentina in the Calchaquies
valley.
The
Ceviche-Wine Match
For this exercise, Phil has chosen three different Ceviches:
the Ecuadorian, Salt Water Trout and Scallops
Ecuadorian
Ceviche
Marinated
tiger prawns in a roasted red tomato and lime sauce
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Salt
Water Trout Ceviche
White radish, soy, ginger lime and coriander |
Scallop
Ceviche
Orange, citrus and red onion,
baby coriander and purple carrot
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Calories
400cals
Fat 26.5g
Saturated fat 5.5g
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Calories
194kcals
Fat 11.5g
Saturated fat 1g
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Calories
190kcals
Fat 7g
Saturated fat 1g |
Recipe
Shrimp (125g)
Lime (0.5)
Kosher Salt (1 pinch)
Coriander (3g)
Red Onion (10g)
Avocado (30g)
Ecuadorian Sauce (1 portion)
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Recipe
Shrimp (125g)
Lime (0.5)
Kosher Salt (1 pinch)
Coriander (3g)
Red Onion (10g)
Avocado (30g)
Ecuadorian Sauce (1 portion)
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Recipe
Scallops (75g)
Aji Amarillo Yellow Chilli Paste (1g)
Black Carrots (15g)
Lemons (0.5)
Limes (0.25)
Oranges (0.5)
Micro Coriander Cress (3g)
Red Onion (20g)
Pepper Red Jalapeno (5g)
Table Salt (5g) |
This
is a full-flavoured Ceviche, using shrimp. The shrimp
is poached in boiling salted water, and then add lemon
and chilli to give the fish more depth in flavour,
for a maximum of 7-10 seconds, just as the skin starts
to turn pink but the inside is still raw. Then add
salt and then lime juice (this starts the curing process).
The sauce is made from roasting jalapenos, Romero
peppers, onions and vine plum tomatoes, add citrus
juices and Tabasco which give the sauce its picy flavour.
The garnish is shaved red onion and picked coriander
topped with sliced avocado. |
Preferably, use
salt water trout from the pacific ocean, fillet skin
and debone the fish and remove the blood line from
the flesh (this is the brown line from the flesh (this
is the brown flesh found between the meat and the
skin). Cut the fish in D-Cut. This means that you
will have to cut it straight down through the fillet
instead of along the length of the fillet. Place the
fish into a bowl, slightly cost with olive oil and
season with salt. Dip the fish into a sauce, made
up of a mixture of pickled ginger, white soy, and
wasabi paste. This will give the fish flavour and
the acid in the pickled ginger will start to cure
the fish. Serve this Ceviche with a white radish (mouli
and coriander salad). This will consist of julienne
of white radish, fresh pickled coriander, stem ginger
syrup and white soy. |
Use
Argentine Queen scallops that come without the roe
or canal or coral (the reddish orange muscle on the
side). Place the scallops into a bowl and season with
salt. You should do this to remove the moisture from
the fish, but the fish needs to get moisture so add
a little lime juice, so that the acid in the citrus
juice starts the curing process. Then add diced red
jalapeno, shaved red onion, fresh orange segments,
baby coriander and the Ceviche sauce to the scallops.
The sauce is made by using fresh orange, lime and
lemon with Aji Amarillo (spicy Peruvian yellow pepper).
The Ceviche is finished with crispy purple carrots
which have been fried and salted. |
Suggested Wine
Zuccardi ‘Serie A’ Malbec Rosé
2007
Made with 100%malbec fruit from the Zuccardi’s
Maipú vineyards, Mendoza, This Rosé
has a light cherry colour with aromas of strawberries
with a subtle orange peel flavour.
The grapes were cold macerated for twelve hours to
extract colour and aromas and then fermented in stainless
steel tanks.
13% Abv.75cl.winemaker Ruben Ruffo £28.00 (Restaurant)
£13.35 (Cavas)
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Suggested
Wine
Terrunviognie 2006
This Viognier is under Gaucho’s own label, Terruno.
Viognier likes some heat, and so is well suited to
this area of Mendoza, Maipu. This is a warmer region
of Mendoza, Given that it is east of the Andes, and
so is lower down and as a result – warmer. Of
course, all this is relative – few places in
the world of wine are as high as this.
This is an intense wine, lots of dried apricot and
lime intensity in the mouth.very round and soft in
the mouth, with an intense finish.14.5% abv £21.50
(Restaurant) £10.25 (Cavas)
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Suggested
Wine
Torrontes – Susana Balbo ‘Crios’
2007
Torrontes is the perfect match for Ceviche.
It is not just that it goes well with the food, but
it is a marvelous palate cleanser.
This grape is thought to originate from Galicia in
Spain, brought over by the many Jesuits that came
to this area of northern Argentina. in Salta, Torrontes
achieves its true expression, giving aromas of elderflower,
rose, lychee and pink grapefruit, with a clean, fresh
and dry finish. this is a very delicate Torrontes,
and is typical of the new, fresher styles that are
coming out of this unique region. Torrontes can now
be called a truly Argentine grape variety. 14% Abv
£23.15 (restaurant) £13.60 (Cavas)
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